Orlando

by

Virginia Woolf

Clothing Symbol Icon

Clothing symbolizes the artificiality of gender as a social construction in Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, and it often serves to obscure one’s true gender identity, which the novel suggests naturally vacillates between both male and female. Orlando’s gender identity, both as a man and as a woman, is communicated and represented through clothing. After Orlando transforms from a man into a woman, the narrator is careful to note that nothing else much changes in Orlando’s appearance. “Their faces remained, as their portraits prove,” the narrator says, “practically the same.” When Orlando wears trousers, he is perceived by others as a man. Conversely, when Orlando wears a dress, she is perceived by others as woman. Thus, the novel suggests, it is Orlando’s clothes, not Orlando’s body, that dictates Orlando’s gender.

The same is true for other characters in the novel who find themselves pigeonholed into certain gender identities based on which gender their clothes suggest they are. For instance, when Orlando first sees Sasha skating on the ice during the Great Frost, her masculine Russian clothes make Orlando believe she is a man; and when the Archduke Harry puts on a dress and disguises himself as the Archduchess Harriet, Orlando believes he is a woman even though he is rightly a man. The narrator even points out how the popular style of dress during the 16th century, which is quite elaborate and feminine even for the men’s fashions, obscures Orlando’s then-male gender. “Clothes are but a symbol of something hidden deep beneath,” the narrator argues. The novel posits that everyone has both male and female qualities and that no one is wholly one gender or the other—after all, “often it is only the clothes that keep the male or female likeness, while underneath the sex is the very opposite of what it is above.”

Clothing Quotes in Orlando

The Orlando quotes below all refer to the symbol of Clothing. For each quote, you can also see the other characters and themes related to it (each theme is indicated by its own dot and icon, like this one:
Writing and Literature Theme Icon
).
Chapter 1 Quotes

But there, sitting at the servants’ dinner table with a tankard beside him and paper in front of him, sat a rather fat, rather shabby man, whose ruff was a thought dirty, and whose clothes were of hodden brown. He held a pen in his hand, but he was not writing. He seemed in the act of rolling some thought up and down, to and fro in his mind till it gathered shape or momentum to his liking. His eyes, globed and clouded like some green stone of curious texture, were fixed. He did not see Orlando. For all his hurry, Orlando stopped dead. Was this a poet? Was he writing poetry? “Tell me,” he wanted to say, “everything in the whole world”—for he had the wildest, most absurd, extravagant ideas about poets and poetry—but how speak to a man who does not see you ? who sees ogres, satyrs, perhaps the depths of the sea instead?

Related Characters: Orlando, The Shabby Man / William Shakespeare
Related Symbols: Clothing
Page Number: 21-22
Explanation and Analysis:
Chapter 4 Quotes

With some of the guineas left from the sale of the tenth pearl of her string, Orlando had bought herself a complete outfit of such clothes as women then wore, and it was in the dress of a young Englishwoman of rank that she now sat on the deck of the Enamoured Lady. It is a strange fact, but a true one that up to this moment she had scarcely given her sex a thought. Perhaps the Turkish trousers, which she had hitherto worn had done something to distract her thoughts; and the gipsy women, except in one or two important particulars, differ very little from the gipsy men. At any rate, it was not until she felt the coil of skirts about her legs and the Captain offered, with the greatest politeness, to have an awning spread for her on deck that she realized, with a start the penalties and the privileges of her position. But that start was not of the kind that might have been expected.

Related Characters: Orlando
Related Symbols: Clothing
Page Number: 153
Explanation and Analysis:

The difference between the sexes is, happily, one of great profundity. Clothes are but a symbol of something hid deep beneath. It was a change in Orlando herself that dictated her choice of a woman’s dress and of a woman’s sex. And perhaps in this she was only expressing rather more openly than usual—openness indeed was the soul of her nature—something that happens to most people without being thus plainly expressed. For here again, we come to a dilemma. Different though the sexes are, they intermix. In every human being a vacillation from one sex to the other takes place, and often it is only the clothes that keep the male or female likeness, while underneath the sex is the very opposite of what it is above. Of the complications and confusions which thus result every one has had experience; but here we leave the general question and note only the odd effect it had in the particular case of Orlando herself.

Related Characters: Orlando
Related Symbols: Clothing
Page Number: 188-189
Explanation and Analysis:
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Orlando PDF

Clothing Symbol Timeline in Orlando

The timeline below shows where the symbol Clothing appears in Orlando. The colored dots and icons indicate which themes are associated with that appearance.
Chapter 1
Gender and Society Theme Icon
...“gigantic,” and old, house. “He—for there can be no doubt of his sex, though the fashion of the time did something to disguise it,” the biographer writes, is eager to ride,... (full context)
Writing and Literature Theme Icon
Subjectivity, Truth, and Biography Theme Icon
Gender and Society Theme Icon
...he “dips his head” and washes his hands. He trims his nails and changes his clothes, putting on “crimson breeches, lace collar, waistcoat of taffeta, and shoes with rosettes” using only... (full context)
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Identity and Transformation Theme Icon
...keep them under.” Orlando is fond of going to pubs and bars, “wrapped in a grey cloak to hide the star at his neck and the garter as his knee,” where he... (full context)
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The figure emerges from the Muscovite Embassy, and, since their clothes—“[a] loose tunic and trousers of the Russian fashion”—obscure their gender, Orlando knows not if the... (full context)
Gender and Society Theme Icon
...listens for every footstep, he hears nothing of Sasha’s. She is to arrive by herself, clothed “in her cloak and trousers, booted like a man.” (full context)
Chapter 3
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...miracle, begin to riot and attack, and Sir Adrian Scrope and a “squad of British bluejackets” have to calm them down. According to the Embassy, the celebration is over by 2... (full context)
Chapter 4
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Orlando buys herself “a complete outfit of such clothes” as the women of the time and boards the Enamored Lady. Aboard the ship to... (full context)
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Orlando thinks her “skirts are plaguey things.” They are beautiful, no doubt, but what if she must jump overboard?... (full context)
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Subjectivity, Truth, and Biography Theme Icon
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“Better is it,” Orlando decides when she wakes, “to be clothed with poverty and ignorance, which are the dark garments of the female sex” if by... (full context)
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...mirror. The pearls around her neck don’t exactly match her outfit, so she dresses in “taffeta” and fixes her makeup. “Now,” she says looking again in the mirror. “So dark, so... (full context)
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...heel with extraordinary rapidity” and tears the pearls from her neck. She strips off her taffeta dress, stands “erect in her neat black silk knickerbockers of an ordinary nobleman,” and rings... (full context)
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Identity and Transformation Theme Icon
According to the narrator, “the change of clothes” has “much to do with it.” Clothes “change our view of the world and the... (full context)
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Identity and Transformation Theme Icon
...woman “takes a sidelong glance at it.” If men and women both wore “the same clothes,” the narrator suspects, “it is possible that their outlook might be the same too.” (full context)
Gender and Society Theme Icon
...matters, the narrator notes, “the difference between the sexes is, happily, one of great profundity.” Clothes, then, “are but a symbol of something hid deep beneath.” In fact, “it was a... (full context)
Gender and Society Theme Icon
...narrator claims. It is curious that Orlando can dress in 10 minutes flat, and her clothes are at times “random” and “rather shabby.” Still, she “has none of the formality of... (full context)
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Identity and Transformation Theme Icon
...makes her “clumsy,” and she often thinks of poetry when she should be thinking of “taffeta.” Her “stride” is “too much” for a woman and her gestures “abrupt.” Additionally, she has... (full context)
Chapter 5
Gender and Society Theme Icon
...Queen, bless her, is wearing a what d’you call it, a—” Orlando interrupts her. “A crinoline,” she says. Why does “every modest woman” do her “best” to “deny” and “conceal” the... (full context)
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Orlando decides to buy crinoline and a bassinette the next day, although she “blushes” at the thought. “The spirit of... (full context)
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...“antipathetic to [Orlando] in the extreme.” She feels “dragged down by the weight of the crinoline” that she “submissively adopted.” It is “heavier and more drab” than anything she has ever... (full context)
Chapter 6
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Identity and Transformation Theme Icon
...has spent “so may hundred years.” Alone, Orlando goes to her room and swaps her skirt for “a pair of whipcord breeches, and leather jacket” in “less than three minutes.” She... (full context)