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In the court of Heian Japan, one’s clothing visibly symbolized one’s rank—an onlooker could determine at a glance, based on the colors and even the fabrics worn, what a person’s rank would be. In that sense, clothing symbolizes not only one’s status within the complex court hierarchy, but the level of respect one is thereby owed. Throughout her diary, Sei Shōnagon seldom describes other people’s physical attributes, but she describes their outfits in detail and assesses the wearer’s worth accordingly. For example, a young man might be an unremarkable, low-ranking courtier unworthy of notice. However, when he’s promoted to Chamberlain and permitted to wear the green color associated with the emperor, the same man is suddenly looked upon as if he’s an exalted being. Thus, clothing symbolizes the stratified social hierarchy among Japanese courtiers, as well as the arbitrary nature of these different statuses.
Clothing Quotes in The Pillow Book
The The Pillow Book quotes below all refer to the symbol of Clothing. For each quote, you can also see the other characters and themes related to it (each theme is indicated by its own dot and icon, like this one:
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Sections 83–87
Quotes
A Chamberlain of the sixth rank. He’s a quite splendid sight in those special green robes he’s allowed to wear, and he can wear damask, which even a high-ranking young nobleman is forbidden. Subordinate officials in the Chamberlain’s office […] look quite inconsequential at the time, but if they become Chamberlains they undergo an astonishing transformation. When they appear as bearer of an imperial pronouncement, or present the imperial gifts of sweet chestnuts and so forth at one of the great ministerial banquets, from the magnificent way they’re received you’d think they were heavenly beings descended to earth!
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Sections 130–135
Quotes
I never intended this book to be seen by others, so I’ve written whatever came into my mind, without worrying about whether people would find it strange or unpleasant.
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Clothing Symbol Timeline in The Pillow Book
The timeline below shows where the symbol Clothing appears in The Pillow Book. The colored dots and icons indicate which themes are associated with that appearance.
Sections 1–4
...Festival is a special delight. Nobles and courtiers are distinguishable by the colors of their clothes in the procession. In the days leading up to the Festival, Sei loves watching attendants...
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Sections 30–32
...important, including the Regent at that time, showed up. She remembers the specific style of clothing everyone wore and that everyone’s red fans created the effect of a field of flowers....
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Sections 34–45
...everything is bedecked with balls of herbs. Lower-class girls go around boasting in their decorated outfits. This is a day for writing and receiving elegant letters, and the hototogisu bird gives...
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Sections 78–82
...in bloom—Sei is merely an “aging woman well past her prime,” dressed in drab mourning clothes.
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...about the fact that only she would notice “the very threads and stitches” of Tadanobu’s outfit.
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Sections 83–87
Somehow the palace becomes especially delightful at the time of the Gosechi Festival—there’s special clothing, groups of senior courtiers singing and laughing, and the sight of a dozing dancer’s face...
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Sections 100–114
...his parents and the attendants in his service. He is from a household where beautiful clothes are worn, and people always sigh that such clothes belong on somebody besides Masahiro. He...
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Sections 115–119
...for a temple pilgrimage is when the spring blossoms are at their peak, when people’s clothes are in the most attractive colors. It’s always best to go on pilgrimage with peers...
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Sections 120–129
...ladies idly discuss and debate the odd names of various ceremonial items and articles of clothing. Finally Sei tells them to knock it off and go to sleep, when suddenly a...
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Sections 130–135
Sei lists a few “worthless things,” including ugly, unpleasant people and clothing starch that’s gone bad. Then she notes that, although most people would agree with these...
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Sections 187–221
...being moved at a distance, a hushed conversation, or the distinct rustlings of different people’s clothes. The delicate blend of incense is also elegantly intriguing. Captain Tadanobu’s subtle blend of incense...
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Sections 260–297
Sei lists various types of clothing: gathered trousers, hunting costumes, shifts, formal robes, and accessories such as fans. She also names...
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